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Salmon 101

Salmon was an important food to many early American Indians whose superstitions prevented certain tribe members from handling or eating the fish lest they anger its spirit and cause it to leave their waters forever. Salmon are anadromous, meaning that they migrate from their saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. Over the years, some salmon have become landlocked in freshwater lakes. In general, the flesh of those salmon is less flavorful than that of their sea-running relatives. There is an increasing volume of aquacultured salmon being imported into the United States today–most of it from Norway, although Chile’s salmon farming industry is now giving the Norwegians some competition. Although farmed salmon are raised in salt water, their flesh doesn’t have the same rich nuances in flavor and texture as that of their wild relations. There are several varieties of North American salmon. All but one are found off the Pacific coast, and about 90 percent come from Alaskan waters. Among the best Pacific salmon is the superior Chinook or king salmon, which can reach up to 120 pounds. The color of its high-fat, soft-textured flesh ranges from off-white to bright red. Other high-fat salmon include the coho or silver salmon, with its firm-textured, pink to red-orange flesh, and the sockeye or red salmon (highly prized for canning) with its firm, deep red flesh. Not as fatty as the preceding species are the pink or humpback salmon–the smallest, most delicately flavored of the Pacific varieties–and the chum or dog salmon, which is distinguished by having the lightest color and lowest fat content. Pacific salmon are in season from spring through fall. The population of the once-abundant Atlantic salmon has diminished greatly over the years because of industrial pollution of both North American and European tributaries. The Atlantic salmon has a high-fat flesh that’s pink and succulent. Canada provides most of the Atlantic salmon, which is in season from summer to early winter. Depending on the variety, salmon is sold whole or in fillets or steaks. It’s also available canned and as smoked salmon, which comes in a variety of styles. The increasingly popular bright red salmon roe is readily available in most supermarkets. Fresh salmon is integral to some of the world’s most famous dishes, including gravlax and coulibiac. It can be served as a main course, in salads, as a spread or dip…its uses are myriad. All salmon are high in protein as well as a rich source of vitamin A, the B-group vitamins and Omega-3 oils.

Seared Salmon with Horseradish Mustard Vinaigrette

INGREDIENTS

4 (6-ounce) pieces of salmon fillet
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoon olive oil
4 teaspoons white wine vinegar
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
4 teaspoons drained bottled horseradish
2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs, i.e. parsley, tarragon, chervil and/or chives

PROCEDURE

Pat salmon dry and coat with salt and pepper. In a heavy skillet heat 2 tablespoons of oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sear salmon, skin side down, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to moderately low. Turn salmon and cook 4 minutes more, or until it just flakes.
While salmon is cooking, in a small bowl whisk together vinegar, mustard, horseradish, remaining 4 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste until emulsified. Serve vinaigrette over salmon.

Steamed Gingered Salmon with Warm Citrus Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Grape seed oil to cook
2 tablespoons ginger julienned
1/2 cup sliced scallions
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 teaspoon coarse ground black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon coarse ground white peppercorns
4 (3-ounce) pieces of salmon fillet
4 eight inch rice paper, softened in warm water
4 red leaf lettuce leaves for steaming
1/2 tablespoon pink peppercorns, for garnish

PROCEDURE

Set up a steamer. In a sauté pan coated with oil on medium heat, sauté the ginger and scallions until soft, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Wipe out pan and toast the salt and peppercorns until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Grind the peppercorns and salt. Season the fillets on both sides with the salt/peppercorn mixture. Place 1 wrapper on a clean dish towel. Place a thin layer of the ginger/scallion mixture and top with fillet. Roll bottom towards the middle. Fold in both sides and continue rolling. Finish roll and let rest. The top of the package will be the ginger/scallion mixture. Place packages in a steamer lined with a leafy vegetable. Steam for about 8 to 10 minutes. Ladle citrus sauce on small plates and place salmon on top. Garnish with pink peppercorns

WARM CITRUS SAUCE
Juice of 1 orange, separated
Juice of 1 lemon, separated
Juice of 1 lime, separated
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional-but highly recommended)
Sea salt and white pepper

In a non-reactive pan, combine juices and reduce on low heat by 5 percent. Add the segments, soy sauce and honey and heat. Whisk in the butter. Season to taste and check for seasoning.

Mashed Potatoes 101

Mashed potatoes have come full circle. The once lumpy, gooey, pasty mixtures that we may remember from childhood have now become the stylish spuds of today’s finest restaurants. Menus now boast, “roasted garlic blue cheese” or “caramelized fennel and walnut mustard” mashes.  Making excellent mashed potatoes is not difficult (although you may still come upon some imperfect ones) all you need are some basic tips and to understand potato ‘anatomy’.

Choose your potatoes wisely. Not all potatoes are created equal. If you prefer a lighter, fluffier mashed potato, choose a Russet potato, like Idaho baking potatoes. If you prefer a smoother, creamier, heavier mashed potato, choose waxy, low starch potatoes (round reds, fingerlings, blue or purple potatoes). For a rich, buttery, creamy potato try Yukon Golds.

Boil potatoes with their skins on; this helps to keep that intense potato flavor. Boil them in salted water, until just tender. If you like mashes with their skins, simply mash away (red skinned mashed are great—the skin adds color and texture). If not, you will need to peel the potatoes before mashing (if you’re using a ricer, see below, you won’t need to peel — the ricer does it for you!).

The way you mash makes all the difference. Potato cells carry “free starch” and you want to release as little of it as possible – since this is what makes your mashed potatoes sticky. Mashing with a fork, or a masher, releases very little free starch, but it also results in a lumpier mash. Mashing with a food mill produces a lump-free product, but the food mill slices the potato cells open and releases some free starch. The grand champion of free starch releasers is the food processor –which whirls away and releases tons of free starch particles throughout the mash (do not use a food processor for mashed potatoes unless you’re trying to invent a new kind of wall paper paste!). One of our favorite tools is the potato ricer. It gently mashes the potatoes, without turning them sticky. It’s also is a great tool because it can rice unpeeled potatoes without letting the peel get through the ricer.

After you’ve mashed your potatoes, put them back in the pot over a low heat for a few minutes to dry them out.

Add room temperature butter to the warmed potatoes and then the warmed liquid. Like potato choices, there is also a big difference in the choice you make for the liquid. Skim milk makes the thinnest mashed potatoes, regular milk (2% or whole) for medium texture and for the richest mashed potatoes … heavy cream! (yeah, yum, remember fat = flavor). Whatever liquid you use, warm it first so that it doesn’t cool the potatoes. If you want mashed potatoes that are lesser in dairy content, try mashing with some of the cooking water or vegetable stock.

Basic Mashed Potatoes

This recipe is a guideline; of course you can decide how thick/thin, buttery/non-buttery you want your mash.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds potatoes (try Yukon Golds)
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup to 1 cup liquid, warmed
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

PROCEDURE

Place whole, washed, potatoes in a large pot of boiling, salted water. Boil until tender (20 to 40 minutes depending on size)

“Mash” potatoes in a potato ricer (if you’re using another tool to mash you will need to peel the potatoes first)

Place the riced potatoes back in the pot over a low heat. Stir for a few minutes, until potatoes are warm and dry (Careful! Don’t burn them!)

Beat in the butter (with a whisk), then the warmed liquid. Whisk vigorously until potatoes are lightened. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

A word about flavored spuds …

To produce stylish spuds with lots of flavor and class, try mashing in different flavor profiles. Food items that are precooked (think minced olives, blue cheese, poached lobster) or condiments (think mustard) work really well in mashed potatoes. Try using flavored mustards, flavored olive oils (you may want to reduce the butter), fresh, chopped herbs, Wasabi paste, sun-dried tomato paste, pesto … use your imagination and be creative. For thicker, harder food stuffs (think carrots, garlic, fennel) you may want to boil them along with the potatoes or sauté them in another pan (caramelized onions, for instance, are divine in mashed potatoes but need to be sautéed in a separate pan and then added to the mash).

Makes: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

10 medium garlic cloves
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
4 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 pound beef tenderloin, sliced
¼ cup soy
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons fish sauce
10 oz. fresh spinach, cleaned

Accompaniment Ideas …
Steamed jasmine rice
Stir-fried noodles

PROCEDURE

Grind the garlic and peppercorns in a mortar and pestle until mixture forms a rough paste. Over medium-high heat, heat the oil in a wok or sauté pan and add the garlic mixture. Sauté 30 seconds. Add the meat and toss until browned. Add the soy, sugar and fish sauce and toss 30 seconds. Add the spinach and toss until wilted. Serve at once with rice or noodles.

Note on Mortar and Pestles …

A mortar and pestle is a tool used to crush, grind, and mix substances. The pestle is a heavy stick whose end is used for pounding and grinding, and the mortar is a bowl. The substance is ground between the pestle and the mortar. Mortars are also used in cooking to prepare ingredients such as guacamole and pesto (which derives its name from the pestle pounding), as well as grinding spices into powder. Native American tribes used mortars carved into the bedrock to grind acorns and other nuts. Many such depressions can be found in their former territories. In Japan, very large mortars are used with wooden mallets to prepare mochi. A regular sized Japanese mortar and pestle are called a suribachi and surikogi, respectively. Granite mortars and pestles are used in Southeast Asia and India. In Malay, it is known as lesung. Traditional Mexican mortar and pestles, made of basalt, are known as molcajetes. Large stone mortars, with long (2-3 feet) wood pestles were also used in the Middle East to grind meat in order to prepare a type of meatloaf, or kibbeh, as well as the hummus variety known as masabcha.