Salmon 101

Salmon was an important food to many early American Indians whose superstitions prevented certain tribe members from handling or eating the fish lest they anger its spirit and cause it to leave their waters forever. Salmon are anadromous, meaning that they migrate from their saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. Over the years, some salmon have become landlocked in freshwater lakes. In general, the flesh of those salmon is less flavorful than that of their sea-running relatives. There is an increasing volume of aquacultured salmon being imported into the United States today–most of it from Norway, although Chile’s salmon farming industry is now giving the Norwegians some competition. Although farmed salmon are raised in salt water, their flesh doesn’t have the same rich nuances in flavor and texture as that of their wild relations. There are several varieties of North American salmon. All but one are found off the Pacific coast, and about 90 percent come from Alaskan waters. Among the best Pacific salmon is the superior Chinook or king salmon, which can reach up to 120 pounds. The color of its high-fat, soft-textured flesh ranges from off-white to bright red. Other high-fat salmon include the coho or silver salmon, with its firm-textured, pink to red-orange flesh, and the sockeye or red salmon (highly prized for canning) with its firm, deep red flesh. Not as fatty as the preceding species are the pink or humpback salmon–the smallest, most delicately flavored of the Pacific varieties–and the chum or dog salmon, which is distinguished by having the lightest color and lowest fat content. Pacific salmon are in season from spring through fall. The population of the once-abundant Atlantic salmon has diminished greatly over the years because of industrial pollution of both North American and European tributaries. The Atlantic salmon has a high-fat flesh that’s pink and succulent. Canada provides most of the Atlantic salmon, which is in season from summer to early winter. Depending on the variety, salmon is sold whole or in fillets or steaks. It’s also available canned and as smoked salmon, which comes in a variety of styles. The increasingly popular bright red salmon roe is readily available in most supermarkets. Fresh salmon is integral to some of the world’s most famous dishes, including gravlax and coulibiac. It can be served as a main course, in salads, as a spread or dip…its uses are myriad. All salmon are high in protein as well as a rich source of vitamin A, the B-group vitamins and Omega-3 oils.

Seared Salmon with Horseradish Mustard Vinaigrette

INGREDIENTS

4 (6-ounce) pieces of salmon fillet
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoon olive oil
4 teaspoons white wine vinegar
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
4 teaspoons drained bottled horseradish
2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs, i.e. parsley, tarragon, chervil and/or chives

PROCEDURE

Pat salmon dry and coat with salt and pepper. In a heavy skillet heat 2 tablespoons of oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sear salmon, skin side down, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to moderately low. Turn salmon and cook 4 minutes more, or until it just flakes.
While salmon is cooking, in a small bowl whisk together vinegar, mustard, horseradish, remaining 4 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste until emulsified. Serve vinaigrette over salmon.

Steamed Gingered Salmon with Warm Citrus Sauce

Makes: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Grape seed oil to cook
2 tablespoons ginger julienned
1/2 cup sliced scallions
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 teaspoon coarse ground black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon coarse ground white peppercorns
4 (3-ounce) pieces of salmon fillet
4 eight inch rice paper, softened in warm water
4 red leaf lettuce leaves for steaming
1/2 tablespoon pink peppercorns, for garnish

PROCEDURE

Set up a steamer. In a sauté pan coated with oil on medium heat, sauté the ginger and scallions until soft, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Wipe out pan and toast the salt and peppercorns until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Grind the peppercorns and salt. Season the fillets on both sides with the salt/peppercorn mixture. Place 1 wrapper on a clean dish towel. Place a thin layer of the ginger/scallion mixture and top with fillet. Roll bottom towards the middle. Fold in both sides and continue rolling. Finish roll and let rest. The top of the package will be the ginger/scallion mixture. Place packages in a steamer lined with a leafy vegetable. Steam for about 8 to 10 minutes. Ladle citrus sauce on small plates and place salmon on top. Garnish with pink peppercorns

WARM CITRUS SAUCE
Juice of 1 orange, separated
Juice of 1 lemon, separated
Juice of 1 lime, separated
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional-but highly recommended)
Sea salt and white pepper

In a non-reactive pan, combine juices and reduce on low heat by 5 percent. Add the segments, soy sauce and honey and heat. Whisk in the butter. Season to taste and check for seasoning.